One of the biggest misconceptions I had about wine as a young oenophile was over the concept of blending different grape varietals. My simple thought process was this: a winemaker only blended wines because he ran out of the good stuff. Fifteen years and several cases later, I have realized the error of my ways. It appears that blending different varietals can actually make a bottle of wine taste better! I’ve learned that Chianti and Bordeaux wines are not grape varietals but are in fact blends. Turns out wine makers from Italy and France have been blending wine for centuries and they are pretty good at it.
However, these old world vintners can’t just blend anything they want. There are rules that must be followed. I could go on a 50 page rant on the topic but I’ll just share the most important of these rules. The respective governments of these countries will only allow a commercial winery to blend grapes grown in a particular region. For example; a winemaker in the Bordeaux region can only blend Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cab Franc, Petite Verdot and Mablec grape varietals into their wines. If he or she thought a Syrah from the Rhone region would make their wine taste better, they could not add it and still call it a wine from Bordeaux. I know it sounds absurd, but I guess if you have been practicing a trade for centuries, change is hard. While we American winemakers haven’t had the experience of our European counterparts, we also haven’t had much time to establish rules that could inhibit blending creativity. We will try about anything to make a wine taste good.
If you think rules can’t influence innovation, Frenchman and winemaker Stephan Asseo would tell you otherwise. Despite being an established and accomplished winemaker in France, Asseo felt he had not truly reached the apex of his wine making. After a visit to Paso Robles California in the early 90’s he discovered what he was looking for; an enormous wine appellation with several microclimates that would grow several different varietals. Furthermore, he could blend them however he wanted. Today, his L’Aventure Estate wines are considered the flagship blend in the region and command a price of $85.00 a bottle. The Winologist was fortunate enough to sample this wine and it is fabulous.
However, we are not rule free either. These standards were put in place by our Government so the consumer can glean as much information about the product as possible from the label. Things like: what type of grapes, how much alcohol, where it is from and what year is the vintage. Another rule is a wine must have at least 75% of one varietal to market the wine as said varietal. For instance, I can say my wine is a Cabernet as long as 75% of the grapes are Cabernet. Should you really care, if a wine isn’t a pure varietal? Absolutely not but remember, there are several wine drinkers who think like I did 15 years ago.
Commercial California winemakers recognized this dilemma but instead of trying to go out and educate the public on the benefits of blending wine, they came up with a cheaper more creative solution. They gave these high end blends their own proprietary name! No snobby,aristocratic wine consumer would purchase something that says red wine on the label. They need something that sounds unique and special. From this mind set, we are blessed with wines named Insignia, Dominus, Opus One, and Rubicon. All of these wines have won accolades and have been given high wine scores. They even sound expensive and every one of them is a blend. Below are some notes on some of my favorite blends. I’ve stuck to North American wines because that is what I have tasted over the past month. The Australians, Chileans and Argentineans are producing some phenomenal blends as well and in my opinion they are more than reasonable. As requested by my readers, I’ve picked different price points and I hope you find the time to try them.
Dillian 2008 Vino Nostro- This wine is just wonderful and comes in at a great price point(~ 20 dollars). This is a classic example of blending grapes from multiple regions. Sixty percent of the fruit is Zinfandel which comes from America, twenty percent is Syrah which is a Rhone Style grape and 20% is Barbera which is an Italian varietal. Wine maker Tom Dillian is a fourth generation famer in Amador County and has developed into a first class vintner as well. You can buy at the winery or call Raj at Lake Forest wines and he will take care of you.
Clayhouse 2008 Adobe Red- The bulk of this Paso Robles wine is comprised from Zin and Syrah but there are an additional six varietals also in the blend! At 15 dollars, it is a bargain. Alcohol content is just under 14% and the wine offers a well balanced finish. Over 25,000 cases were produced so it should be easy to find. I know some of you frown upon wines without corks so full disclosure; this has a screw cap.
Ramey 2007 Napa Valley Claret- Lets first deal with the word Claret; it is just another fancy French way of saying blend. It is NOT a grape varietal. I really enjoyed this wine and if you appreciate good Cabernet, then you will want to pick some of this up. While the vast majority of the wine is Cab, there is also Syrah, Malbec, Merlot, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot blended as well. I see it has scores in the low 90s from various wine magazines but at $36 dollars a bottle it borders on being a wine for a special occasion in this day and age.
Mark Ryan 2007 Dead Horse Ciel Du Cheval Vineyard- This was one of my more pleasant finds in my cellar this month. I had bought it awhile ago and somehow it got behind a champagne bottle. Mark Ryan is one of my favorite wine makers period. He always brings out quality wines and this Washington blend is no exception. The only problem is he does very limited quantities so you are best to get on a mailing list if you really enjoy his wine. Also seems his prices have moved from the low $40s to the high $40s. That said, the quality of his wines is comparable to any high end, high priced Napa product.
Orin Swift 2009 Abstract Red Wine- A few years ago, Orin Swift owner David Phinney came out with an eclectic Zin based blend called The Prisoner. It was at a reasonable price point in the mid 20’s and it was a huge success. A friend of mine said he recently saw it listed in a Chicago restaurant for $90 bucks! The Abstract is a follow up and it is newly released. Abstract is a blend of Grenache, Petite Sirah, and Syrah and priced in the mid- 20’s (just like the Prisoner when it was newly released) it is a great value. I believe it is sold out at the winery but you should be able to find it on-line or at a local wine merchant.
Due Regazze Vineyards (JPB's Vines in Cameron Park, CA)
Friday, April 1, 2011
Monday, February 28, 2011
Cheers to Momma Lee!
My relationship with my mother-in-law is unusual; we actually like each other. While we share a mutual love for her daughter and my kids, we both really enjoy a nice glass or bottle of wine. Recently, she gave me a book for my birthday that truly touches on what this blog is all about; finding value.
The Wine Trials 2011 published by Fearless Critic Media lists over 175 wines under $15 dollars that beat out higher end wines in blind tastings. In addition to offering commentary on each wine, the book goes into detail (in some cases too much detail) on how the wines were selected and how the judging takes place. The book pulls no punches in describing the pressure wine makers are under to satisfy the palates of the wine media and effectively illustrates how much money goes into marketing and branding a wine. Right in the beginning of the book, they share the results of a blind tasting between a $150 dollar a bottle of Dom Perignon and a $12 dollar a bottle of Domaine Ste. Michelle Cuvee Brut from the state of Washington. While over two thirds of the tasters preferred the cheaper wine, the author offers up the question; why are consumers willing to pay 12 times as much for a bottle of champagne that clearly is not 12 times better tasting?
As a winemaker, I know for a fact that there are certain processes that simply make a wine more expensive. It may be the labor in individually selecting each grape bunch that goes into a wine or the type of barrel one uses to age a wine. I will also be the first to admit there is nothing like a big bold Cab from the Howell Mountain AVA of Napa. This nectar from the wine gods is truly special, but unless you are rolling with the Bill Gates crowd, it’s not an everyday drinking wine.
I know I’ve strayed from my traditional wine review and offered up a book critique but don’t worry, for those that would rather spend their money on wine than buying this book, I’ve tasted a few wines from the book and the notes are below. If you find yourself actually going out and buying them, remember to raise your glass and offer a toast to Momma Lee.
Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut- Slight hint of green apples on the nose with plenty of acidity and bubbles to balance the flavor. Since I’m not a Champagne drinker, I bought it for some guests who drink it more than I do and they loved it. They said it will be their go to bottle from now on. As an aside, Chateau Ste. Michelle had multiple wines in this book and was chosen as the 2011 Winery of the Year.
Mark West 2008 Pinot Noir- Just like their Chardonnay I wrote about a few months ago, this Pinot is a terrific value (found it at a local supermarket for $12) . The wine offers loads of fruit flavor and is very traditional of California Coastal Pinot Noir. As their website claims, this wine is a Pinot for the people.
Norton Barrel Select 2009 Malbec- This Argentine stunner was my favorite by far. I loved the boldness but it still had elegance and balance. It is a typical Malbec that offers deep dark color with a long finish. Do not get confused with other Norton labels (Norton is a large producer and has several labels) and should cost ~$12 dollars. I would strongly suggest buying a big piece of red meat to go with it.
Hayman & Hill 2007 Napa Valley Cabernet- It’s very rare these days to discover a Napa Valley Cabernet that tastes this good for under $15 dollars. Full bodied with hint of cocoa and currants. For what it’s worth, it was hard not to get a good Napa Cab from the 2007 vintage and given the early notes for 2008 and 2009, I would grab as much as you can.
Concannon 2007 Petite Sirah- While this varietal is used more for blending red wines than standing alone; more winemakers are giving Petite Sirah a chance to shine. Its low acidity tends to give the wines a more jammy fruit forward characteristic but the Concannon seems to offer enough tannins and richness to justify taking a risk and buying. I’ve tried other Concannon varietals before and they are a decent value for their price but the PS is clearly the best I've had.
The Wine Trials 2011 published by Fearless Critic Media lists over 175 wines under $15 dollars that beat out higher end wines in blind tastings. In addition to offering commentary on each wine, the book goes into detail (in some cases too much detail) on how the wines were selected and how the judging takes place. The book pulls no punches in describing the pressure wine makers are under to satisfy the palates of the wine media and effectively illustrates how much money goes into marketing and branding a wine. Right in the beginning of the book, they share the results of a blind tasting between a $150 dollar a bottle of Dom Perignon and a $12 dollar a bottle of Domaine Ste. Michelle Cuvee Brut from the state of Washington. While over two thirds of the tasters preferred the cheaper wine, the author offers up the question; why are consumers willing to pay 12 times as much for a bottle of champagne that clearly is not 12 times better tasting?
As a winemaker, I know for a fact that there are certain processes that simply make a wine more expensive. It may be the labor in individually selecting each grape bunch that goes into a wine or the type of barrel one uses to age a wine. I will also be the first to admit there is nothing like a big bold Cab from the Howell Mountain AVA of Napa. This nectar from the wine gods is truly special, but unless you are rolling with the Bill Gates crowd, it’s not an everyday drinking wine.
I know I’ve strayed from my traditional wine review and offered up a book critique but don’t worry, for those that would rather spend their money on wine than buying this book, I’ve tasted a few wines from the book and the notes are below. If you find yourself actually going out and buying them, remember to raise your glass and offer a toast to Momma Lee.
Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut- Slight hint of green apples on the nose with plenty of acidity and bubbles to balance the flavor. Since I’m not a Champagne drinker, I bought it for some guests who drink it more than I do and they loved it. They said it will be their go to bottle from now on. As an aside, Chateau Ste. Michelle had multiple wines in this book and was chosen as the 2011 Winery of the Year.
Mark West 2008 Pinot Noir- Just like their Chardonnay I wrote about a few months ago, this Pinot is a terrific value (found it at a local supermarket for $12) . The wine offers loads of fruit flavor and is very traditional of California Coastal Pinot Noir. As their website claims, this wine is a Pinot for the people.
Norton Barrel Select 2009 Malbec- This Argentine stunner was my favorite by far. I loved the boldness but it still had elegance and balance. It is a typical Malbec that offers deep dark color with a long finish. Do not get confused with other Norton labels (Norton is a large producer and has several labels) and should cost ~$12 dollars. I would strongly suggest buying a big piece of red meat to go with it.
Hayman & Hill 2007 Napa Valley Cabernet- It’s very rare these days to discover a Napa Valley Cabernet that tastes this good for under $15 dollars. Full bodied with hint of cocoa and currants. For what it’s worth, it was hard not to get a good Napa Cab from the 2007 vintage and given the early notes for 2008 and 2009, I would grab as much as you can.
Concannon 2007 Petite Sirah- While this varietal is used more for blending red wines than standing alone; more winemakers are giving Petite Sirah a chance to shine. Its low acidity tends to give the wines a more jammy fruit forward characteristic but the Concannon seems to offer enough tannins and richness to justify taking a risk and buying. I’ve tried other Concannon varietals before and they are a decent value for their price but the PS is clearly the best I've had.
Tuesday, January 25, 2011
An interview with a "Wine Guy"
When it comes to picking good wine; knowledge is power. While I’ve purchased my share of wine at Costco, Bev Mo, and my local supermarket, I always spend a good amount of time and money at my favorite wine proprietor. A good wine guy can become a friend for life and offer more wine buying information than even Google can provide. For those that don’t live in California, or other major wine growing states, your wine guy might be your only access to one of your favorite brands. While they may not always have the cheapest prices, the true value finds are found at a good local wine shop.
When I moved back to California eleven years ago, many of my clients on the east coast thought Sacramento was a stone’s throw from Napa and they were always asking me what wines they should buy (Translation-“Hey I just did a huge amount of business with you, how about shipping me some of those fantastic Napa Cabs!”). My wine knowledge was limited at the time and I needed help. That is when my relationship with Lakeforest Wines started. The Sachdeva family opened for business in the mid 1990’s and their wine knowledge and salesmanship have rewarded them with business from all parts of the world. What made them unique to me was their eagerness to actually let me try a bottle before it was purchased! They have a beautiful granite countertop bar in the back of their shop and the number of regular customers hanging out there gives it a sort of “Cheers” feel to it. Back I would go to the bar and we would discuss the story behind the wine and what made it unique. It was a great experience for me. More than once, Mrs. Winologist would call the store and kindly ask them to send me home. Slowly (remember I’m of Irish descent and nothing comes quickly for us except a good joke), my knowledge of the wine world accelerated and before I had realized I’d picked up another expensive hobby, I was hooked. Below is an interview with Raj Sachdeva. Before I begin, let me just say this is not a cheap advertisement for www.lakeforestwines.com. I have stuck to my journalistic integrity and not accepted a dime for this post. However, if Raj happens to give me a HUGE discount on my next case, don’t hold it against me!
Winologist: What qualities should a consumer look for when searching for a good wine merchant?
Raj: Selection is very important. They should be offering wines you don’t normally see in a supermarket. Also, the number of years they are in business is important. There are many “fly-by-night” operations that don’t understand what it takes to build a clientele. I also tell customers to be wary of on-line only operations, particularly when purchasing older vintages. You don’t always get what you think you are paying for.
Winologist: Where is the best value today?
Raj:- Domestically, I think California Syrah wines are extremely undervalued. I’m not sure why, but there just don’t seem to be buyers for this varietal and there are some very talented winemakers putting out quality Syrah wine. Internationally, I think Chile and Argentina are putting out great wines for the price. It’s important to stick to what they are known for such as Malbec and Cabernet. Also, some will get better with age, but many are made to be drinkable right away.
Winologist: Anything particular?
Raj: JC Cellars does a nice, fruit forward Syrah and for the quality of the wine, it’s a good value in the mid twenties. Wine Spectator usually has them rated in the low 90’s. Also, there are a number of great Syrah wines from the Paso Robles region.
Winologist: What about white wines?
Raj: Right now, it seems Chardonnay has gotten unreasonably expensive but there is a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc that I like. The Brancott Conders Forest Sauvignon Blanc is very nice. It has that classic acidity of the region and fresh citrus aroma.
Winologist: I keep hearing about an oversupply of wine produced in Napa but I never really see any price cuts. If I were going to spend say $70 dollars on a big Napa cab, what would you recommend?
Raj: Right now, I’m selling a lot of the Ramey 2006 Napa Cabernet. It usually retails for ~$55 dollars and I am making money selling it at $35.
Winologist: OK, back to reality. How about $20 dollars!
Raj: There are two I really like at that price point. The 2006 Steltzner Napa Cabernet and the 2008 Eberle Cabernet from Paso Robles are both outstanding. The Steltzner cab is all fruit from the Staggs Leap region and it is very rare to see a wine priced in the low 20’s from that part of Napa. The Eberle wine has always been consistently good and the 2008 is no exception.
Winologist: What buzz are you hearing about the 2010 Napa Vintage?
Raj: We’re hearing it was a difficult vintage. We had a very cool summer which delayed the harvest. Then we had a two week span of unusually hot weather right before grapes were to be picked and a lot of fruit had to be cut. . This year will be similar to the 2000 vintage which was very small. There will be some great wines, but it won’t be a year to be remembered favorably.
Winologist: Thanks for your time Raj. Now can you pour me a little more of that JC Cellars Syrah?
JPB
January 2011
When I moved back to California eleven years ago, many of my clients on the east coast thought Sacramento was a stone’s throw from Napa and they were always asking me what wines they should buy (Translation-“Hey I just did a huge amount of business with you, how about shipping me some of those fantastic Napa Cabs!”). My wine knowledge was limited at the time and I needed help. That is when my relationship with Lakeforest Wines started. The Sachdeva family opened for business in the mid 1990’s and their wine knowledge and salesmanship have rewarded them with business from all parts of the world. What made them unique to me was their eagerness to actually let me try a bottle before it was purchased! They have a beautiful granite countertop bar in the back of their shop and the number of regular customers hanging out there gives it a sort of “Cheers” feel to it. Back I would go to the bar and we would discuss the story behind the wine and what made it unique. It was a great experience for me. More than once, Mrs. Winologist would call the store and kindly ask them to send me home. Slowly (remember I’m of Irish descent and nothing comes quickly for us except a good joke), my knowledge of the wine world accelerated and before I had realized I’d picked up another expensive hobby, I was hooked. Below is an interview with Raj Sachdeva. Before I begin, let me just say this is not a cheap advertisement for www.lakeforestwines.com. I have stuck to my journalistic integrity and not accepted a dime for this post. However, if Raj happens to give me a HUGE discount on my next case, don’t hold it against me!
Winologist: What qualities should a consumer look for when searching for a good wine merchant?
Raj: Selection is very important. They should be offering wines you don’t normally see in a supermarket. Also, the number of years they are in business is important. There are many “fly-by-night” operations that don’t understand what it takes to build a clientele. I also tell customers to be wary of on-line only operations, particularly when purchasing older vintages. You don’t always get what you think you are paying for.
Winologist: Where is the best value today?
Raj:- Domestically, I think California Syrah wines are extremely undervalued. I’m not sure why, but there just don’t seem to be buyers for this varietal and there are some very talented winemakers putting out quality Syrah wine. Internationally, I think Chile and Argentina are putting out great wines for the price. It’s important to stick to what they are known for such as Malbec and Cabernet. Also, some will get better with age, but many are made to be drinkable right away.
Winologist: Anything particular?
Raj: JC Cellars does a nice, fruit forward Syrah and for the quality of the wine, it’s a good value in the mid twenties. Wine Spectator usually has them rated in the low 90’s. Also, there are a number of great Syrah wines from the Paso Robles region.
Winologist: What about white wines?
Raj: Right now, it seems Chardonnay has gotten unreasonably expensive but there is a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc that I like. The Brancott Conders Forest Sauvignon Blanc is very nice. It has that classic acidity of the region and fresh citrus aroma.
Winologist: I keep hearing about an oversupply of wine produced in Napa but I never really see any price cuts. If I were going to spend say $70 dollars on a big Napa cab, what would you recommend?
Raj: Right now, I’m selling a lot of the Ramey 2006 Napa Cabernet. It usually retails for ~$55 dollars and I am making money selling it at $35.
Winologist: OK, back to reality. How about $20 dollars!
Raj: There are two I really like at that price point. The 2006 Steltzner Napa Cabernet and the 2008 Eberle Cabernet from Paso Robles are both outstanding. The Steltzner cab is all fruit from the Staggs Leap region and it is very rare to see a wine priced in the low 20’s from that part of Napa. The Eberle wine has always been consistently good and the 2008 is no exception.
Winologist: What buzz are you hearing about the 2010 Napa Vintage?
Raj: We’re hearing it was a difficult vintage. We had a very cool summer which delayed the harvest. Then we had a two week span of unusually hot weather right before grapes were to be picked and a lot of fruit had to be cut. . This year will be similar to the 2000 vintage which was very small. There will be some great wines, but it won’t be a year to be remembered favorably.
Winologist: Thanks for your time Raj. Now can you pour me a little more of that JC Cellars Syrah?
JPB
January 2011
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
Dear Winologist.....
Last month’s Thanksgiving write up brought the most reader response to date. Much of the feedback included additional questions and comments for celebrations occurring in December. Below I share my responses and while some may not include a wine recommendation, the information will be useful to anyone who follows this blog site. Enjoy and Happy Holidays!
Dear Winologist: At least once during the holiday season I wake up after a party and realize I opened a special bottle of wine that I shouldn’t have. It usually happens late into the night when my better judgment has been impaired. How can I break the cycle of this unfortunate holiday tradition? Signed, “Too Buzzed in Boston”
Dear “Too Buzzed”: The Winologist feels your pain as I have made this mistake more than once. I remember a few years ago at a Christmas party we were hosting cracking open a 1999 Joseph Phelps Insignia at 2:00am for my guests thinking, “I was going to save this for a special occasion; maybe this party is it!” I could have cracked open a bottle of gasoline and nobody would have cared. This form of stupidity is actually a disease called RBP syndrome (Regrettable Bottle Pouring Syndrome) and it usually but not always effects people of Irish decent. It can be treated but not cured. The best idea I’ve heard to combat RBP comes from my friend Brady. Brady says to take red, yellow, and green rubber bands and attach them to the tops of your wine bottles. Green rubber bands can be pulled from the cellar at all times. Yellow rubber bands must be closely scrutinized and probably require the good sense of someone sober to say it should be opened. Wines that have red rubber bands are never to be touched after dinner. It sounds so simple but the Winologist thinks the idea is pure genius!
Dear Winologist: Can you recommend a nice bottle of Champagne that won’t give me a horrible headache and is affordable? Signed, “Loving the Bubbly”
Dear” Bubbly”: If you are looking for a sparkling wine from the Champagne region of France (which is technically the only place a sparkling wine can be labeled Champagne) then I would suggest a non vintage choice like Tattinger Brut Champagne La Francaise. This wine is usually available and for $40 a bottle, it’s an affordable product from that region. I have to admit, I’m not a frequent drinker of Champagne and I tend to favor sparkling wines from Napa or Sonoma only because of its accessibility and affordability. If you are looking for a solid sparkling wine for guests to either serve before dinner or toast in the New Year, I would go with the Mumm Napa Brut Prestige(about $17 dollars a bottle) or the Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut which is at a similar price point. Both wineries carry a stellar reputation for putting out quality products and if you minimize your consumption, the headache won’t ruin your morning after.
Dear Winologist: This year’s holiday season has left my finances in shambles. Can you recommend something I can drink guilt free while I pay down the Visa? Signed, “Careless With Credit”
Dear “Careless”: The obvious choice would be to stop drinking wine. However, given all of the recent studies done on the health benefits of drinking wine, I’d hate to see you put your health at risk. It also appears that wine merchants are taking advantage of all of the Black Friday/Cyber Monday hype and offering specials of their own. Right now, my favorite holiday value drinking wine is Chateau St. Michelle Indian Wells Merlot. My Uncle Jack turned me on to this and I picked up a case at Beverages and More for under $13 bucks a bottle. As noted in the latest issue of Wine Spectator, Washington State Wines offer incredible value and this wine was given a 90 point rating and picked as one of their “Smart Buys”. My other find while perusing the isles of BevMo was a 2007 Lake County Cabernet called Vigilance. Lake County is an up and coming region adjacent to Napa and the Vigilance has incredible depth and is surprisingly robust for a wine at that price. For an affordable white wine, I like the recent release of the Cameron Hughes Lot 215 Willamette Valley Chardonnay. Priced at $11.00(the sight is offering deals on shipping as well), it’s an incredible bargain for a wine from this Oregon region.
Dear Winologist: We have banned alcohol from our Festivus celebrations because it has become a catalyst for excessive violence. Can you suggest some alternative gifts that would be appreciated by a wine drinker? Signed, Making it Happen in Manhattan
Dear Making it: The Winologist always appreciates a good Seinfeld reference even though it shows his age! Right now my favorite oenophile gift is the Vinturi red wine aerator or as my buddy Crusty Old Mick calls it, “The Wizzinator” (yes it actually sounds like someone left the bathroom door open!). This simple contraption actually shoots air into the wine as you pour it into your glass. While some may consider this snobbish, I’m here to tell you it really makes wine taste better. Another idea that I think might be helpful is the Waterfall rotating wine chiller. I don’t own one(hint to Mrs. Winologist!) but I’ve always thought it would be nice to have for guests who pop in and want to have a chilled glass of white wine (I never have any cold because I just mostly drink red). Both gifts are not overly expensive and have a high probability of not being re-gifted.
Happy Holidays!
JPB
Dear Winologist: At least once during the holiday season I wake up after a party and realize I opened a special bottle of wine that I shouldn’t have. It usually happens late into the night when my better judgment has been impaired. How can I break the cycle of this unfortunate holiday tradition? Signed, “Too Buzzed in Boston”
Dear “Too Buzzed”: The Winologist feels your pain as I have made this mistake more than once. I remember a few years ago at a Christmas party we were hosting cracking open a 1999 Joseph Phelps Insignia at 2:00am for my guests thinking, “I was going to save this for a special occasion; maybe this party is it!” I could have cracked open a bottle of gasoline and nobody would have cared. This form of stupidity is actually a disease called RBP syndrome (Regrettable Bottle Pouring Syndrome) and it usually but not always effects people of Irish decent. It can be treated but not cured. The best idea I’ve heard to combat RBP comes from my friend Brady. Brady says to take red, yellow, and green rubber bands and attach them to the tops of your wine bottles. Green rubber bands can be pulled from the cellar at all times. Yellow rubber bands must be closely scrutinized and probably require the good sense of someone sober to say it should be opened. Wines that have red rubber bands are never to be touched after dinner. It sounds so simple but the Winologist thinks the idea is pure genius!
Dear Winologist: Can you recommend a nice bottle of Champagne that won’t give me a horrible headache and is affordable? Signed, “Loving the Bubbly”
Dear” Bubbly”: If you are looking for a sparkling wine from the Champagne region of France (which is technically the only place a sparkling wine can be labeled Champagne) then I would suggest a non vintage choice like Tattinger Brut Champagne La Francaise. This wine is usually available and for $40 a bottle, it’s an affordable product from that region. I have to admit, I’m not a frequent drinker of Champagne and I tend to favor sparkling wines from Napa or Sonoma only because of its accessibility and affordability. If you are looking for a solid sparkling wine for guests to either serve before dinner or toast in the New Year, I would go with the Mumm Napa Brut Prestige(about $17 dollars a bottle) or the Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut which is at a similar price point. Both wineries carry a stellar reputation for putting out quality products and if you minimize your consumption, the headache won’t ruin your morning after.
Dear Winologist: This year’s holiday season has left my finances in shambles. Can you recommend something I can drink guilt free while I pay down the Visa? Signed, “Careless With Credit”
Dear “Careless”: The obvious choice would be to stop drinking wine. However, given all of the recent studies done on the health benefits of drinking wine, I’d hate to see you put your health at risk. It also appears that wine merchants are taking advantage of all of the Black Friday/Cyber Monday hype and offering specials of their own. Right now, my favorite holiday value drinking wine is Chateau St. Michelle Indian Wells Merlot. My Uncle Jack turned me on to this and I picked up a case at Beverages and More for under $13 bucks a bottle. As noted in the latest issue of Wine Spectator, Washington State Wines offer incredible value and this wine was given a 90 point rating and picked as one of their “Smart Buys”. My other find while perusing the isles of BevMo was a 2007 Lake County Cabernet called Vigilance. Lake County is an up and coming region adjacent to Napa and the Vigilance has incredible depth and is surprisingly robust for a wine at that price. For an affordable white wine, I like the recent release of the Cameron Hughes Lot 215 Willamette Valley Chardonnay. Priced at $11.00(the sight is offering deals on shipping as well), it’s an incredible bargain for a wine from this Oregon region.
Dear Winologist: We have banned alcohol from our Festivus celebrations because it has become a catalyst for excessive violence. Can you suggest some alternative gifts that would be appreciated by a wine drinker? Signed, Making it Happen in Manhattan
Dear Making it: The Winologist always appreciates a good Seinfeld reference even though it shows his age! Right now my favorite oenophile gift is the Vinturi red wine aerator or as my buddy Crusty Old Mick calls it, “The Wizzinator” (yes it actually sounds like someone left the bathroom door open!). This simple contraption actually shoots air into the wine as you pour it into your glass. While some may consider this snobbish, I’m here to tell you it really makes wine taste better. Another idea that I think might be helpful is the Waterfall rotating wine chiller. I don’t own one(hint to Mrs. Winologist!) but I’ve always thought it would be nice to have for guests who pop in and want to have a chilled glass of white wine (I never have any cold because I just mostly drink red). Both gifts are not overly expensive and have a high probability of not being re-gifted.
Happy Holidays!
JPB
Thursday, November 4, 2010
THANKSGIVING-PAIRING WINE TO "THE SITUATION"
This time of year, journalist and bloggers always comment and debate about what wine to pair with a Thanksgiving meal. Do you go with a light bodied Russian River Pinot or do you play it safe with a white wine of your choice? The Winologist feels the proper answer is: Drink whatever you want! However, no one has covered pairing a wine with a Thanksgiving social setting. Whether you’ve been a Thanksgiving guest of people you barely know, or you are hosting this traditional American meal for in-laws you are trying to win over, picking the proper wine can be almost as stressful as preparing the food. Below are some helpful wine suggestions that just might provide a solution to your situation.
PROBLEM-My in-laws are giant wine snobs and they pretty much can’t stand me-
SOLUTION- Unfortunately, this will not be a cheap fix. For red wine drinkers, swing for the fences and go with a Willamette Valley Pinot Noir from Oregon. Although pricey (remember this is a special occasion and you are trying to be a complete “suck up”!), the Bergstrom 2008 Pinots are scoring mid 90’s in Wine Spectator and they are phenomenal. . Depending on the vineyard, prices run between $40 and $80 dollars. For an impressive white wine, go with the Donelan Family 2008 “Venus”. This Sonoma Valley Rhone Style blend is made up Roussanne and Viognier grapes and offers citrus and peach aromas. Showing up with this wine demonstrates you are aware of the trending ABC movement in California (Anything But Chardonnay) which any wine snob will appreciate. Again, not a cheap fix with the price in the high $40s. If these choices can’t at least win you some disingenuous praise, then you might as well give up, drink up, and give them a reason to not like you.
PROBLEM- My relatives think drinking wine costing more than $5 dollars a bottle is pretentious and a waste of money.
SOLUTION-The first step is to announce there has been a major recall of all antacid products and you have made sure everyone is safe by disposing all of the Tums, Rolaids, and Pepcid in the household. This will ensure no one will attempt to drink the gallon jug- screw top wine Uncle Fester insists on bringing every year. Next offer up some reasonably priced alternatives where antacids will not be needed. Given your audience, the Wineolgist feels you need to deviate from the Pinot playbook and try a Syrah where the grapes are grown in a cool climate. While many wine critics say California Syrah wines are too high in alcohol and are overpowering, cooler climate regions of California and Washington will produce very aromatic and spicy flavored Syrah yet still be food friendly. Also, it’s much easier to find a great tasting Syrah wine for under $20 than to find a Pinot Noir at that same price point. Smoking Loon offers a decent tasting Syrah for ~$8 dollars but I would spend a few extra bucks and spoil the family with the 2007 Bonterra Mendocino County Syrah for $16. If you feel Uncle Fester will be offended by your actions, you can resort to the “Hide and Sneak” tactic. Hide your great tasting wine under the bathroom sink cabinet and sneak off to the restroom when your glass is close to empty.
PROBLEM-My boss has invited me to Thanksgiving dinner and asked me to bring a white wine. He knows I only drink red and I feel he’s trying to broaden my horizons.
SOLUTION- This is the classic social double negative: You have to spend social time with someone who decides how much you make and you have to drink something you don’t care for and pretend to like it! The safe bet is to go with a Chardonnay that has a little depth too it. I like the Gary Farrell 2008 Carneros Selection. This is a full bodied Chardonnay that represents classic California style. Priced in the low $30’s , it is the perfect price point for saying,” Boss, I wanted to bring you something nice but at same time, not make you think you are paying me too much”. If you are trying to be more frugal, Wine Spectator chose the Sebastiani 2008 Sonoma County Chardonnay for its smart buys this month at $13 dollars. While I have not tried this wine, I do think the Sebastiani winery has consistently put out good value wines. If you want to impress the boss and have some extra money, Try and get your hands on some of the Williams Selyem Russian River Chardonnay. Winemaker Bob Cabral is known for his Pinots but he is also making a name for himself with Chardonnay as well. Elegant and full bodied, they would be a great match for any Thanksgiving meal. Unfortunately, you need to be on a list to obtain Williams Selyem wines but given the state of the economy over the last few years, there is probably room for you on the list.
PROBLEM-My parents are first generation European immigrants and feel wine can only be properly made in the old country.
SOLUTION-If you are like me and know very little about Old World wines, you need to find someone who does. My go-to guy on Italian, French, Spanish or Portuguese wine is my good friend Brian in North Carolina. Brian is not only knowledgeable on this topic; he is a value shopper like me. Below are some of his choices. NOTE: the recommendations are only the Readers Digest version. Brian provided me with a fantastic write up on why he chose the wines below and if any reader has an interest in reading it in its entirety, please let me know and I’ll email it to you.
Valpolicella Ripasso – Dry Red Italian Wine – Ripasso means “repassed”. The unpressed grape skins from Amerone production are added to the already blended and fermented Valpolicella. This adds an incredible amount of body, character, and style to the typically simple wine.
Beaujolais Villages AOC – This is the intermediate level of Beaujolais between the basic Beaujolais and the top Cru Beaujolais. It is quite inexpensive and light to medium bodied with very little tannin and high acidity. Beaujolais is widely consumed throughout the world and considered to be the drink of choice in Burgundy while one waits for the Pinot Noir to age. Beaujolais is supposed to be consumed young and fresh within the first 2 years after the vintage date.
Pouilly Fuisse - Pouilly-Fuisse is a dry white wine made from
Chardonnay. White burgundy tends to show more minerality, acidity and
fresh fruit than chardonnay from the new world.
Cava - Cava is a Spanish sparkling wine made in the traditional method
of the French sparkling wine, Champagne. The primary grape varieties
used in its production are Macabeo, Parellada and Xarello. It tends to be more steely and acidic than sparkling wines produced from Chardonnay.
Happy Thanksgiving to one and all-
JPB
PROBLEM-My in-laws are giant wine snobs and they pretty much can’t stand me-
SOLUTION- Unfortunately, this will not be a cheap fix. For red wine drinkers, swing for the fences and go with a Willamette Valley Pinot Noir from Oregon. Although pricey (remember this is a special occasion and you are trying to be a complete “suck up”!), the Bergstrom 2008 Pinots are scoring mid 90’s in Wine Spectator and they are phenomenal. . Depending on the vineyard, prices run between $40 and $80 dollars. For an impressive white wine, go with the Donelan Family 2008 “Venus”. This Sonoma Valley Rhone Style blend is made up Roussanne and Viognier grapes and offers citrus and peach aromas. Showing up with this wine demonstrates you are aware of the trending ABC movement in California (Anything But Chardonnay) which any wine snob will appreciate. Again, not a cheap fix with the price in the high $40s. If these choices can’t at least win you some disingenuous praise, then you might as well give up, drink up, and give them a reason to not like you.
PROBLEM- My relatives think drinking wine costing more than $5 dollars a bottle is pretentious and a waste of money.
SOLUTION-The first step is to announce there has been a major recall of all antacid products and you have made sure everyone is safe by disposing all of the Tums, Rolaids, and Pepcid in the household. This will ensure no one will attempt to drink the gallon jug- screw top wine Uncle Fester insists on bringing every year. Next offer up some reasonably priced alternatives where antacids will not be needed. Given your audience, the Wineolgist feels you need to deviate from the Pinot playbook and try a Syrah where the grapes are grown in a cool climate. While many wine critics say California Syrah wines are too high in alcohol and are overpowering, cooler climate regions of California and Washington will produce very aromatic and spicy flavored Syrah yet still be food friendly. Also, it’s much easier to find a great tasting Syrah wine for under $20 than to find a Pinot Noir at that same price point. Smoking Loon offers a decent tasting Syrah for ~$8 dollars but I would spend a few extra bucks and spoil the family with the 2007 Bonterra Mendocino County Syrah for $16. If you feel Uncle Fester will be offended by your actions, you can resort to the “Hide and Sneak” tactic. Hide your great tasting wine under the bathroom sink cabinet and sneak off to the restroom when your glass is close to empty.
PROBLEM-My boss has invited me to Thanksgiving dinner and asked me to bring a white wine. He knows I only drink red and I feel he’s trying to broaden my horizons.
SOLUTION- This is the classic social double negative: You have to spend social time with someone who decides how much you make and you have to drink something you don’t care for and pretend to like it! The safe bet is to go with a Chardonnay that has a little depth too it. I like the Gary Farrell 2008 Carneros Selection. This is a full bodied Chardonnay that represents classic California style. Priced in the low $30’s , it is the perfect price point for saying,” Boss, I wanted to bring you something nice but at same time, not make you think you are paying me too much”. If you are trying to be more frugal, Wine Spectator chose the Sebastiani 2008 Sonoma County Chardonnay for its smart buys this month at $13 dollars. While I have not tried this wine, I do think the Sebastiani winery has consistently put out good value wines. If you want to impress the boss and have some extra money, Try and get your hands on some of the Williams Selyem Russian River Chardonnay. Winemaker Bob Cabral is known for his Pinots but he is also making a name for himself with Chardonnay as well. Elegant and full bodied, they would be a great match for any Thanksgiving meal. Unfortunately, you need to be on a list to obtain Williams Selyem wines but given the state of the economy over the last few years, there is probably room for you on the list.
PROBLEM-My parents are first generation European immigrants and feel wine can only be properly made in the old country.
SOLUTION-If you are like me and know very little about Old World wines, you need to find someone who does. My go-to guy on Italian, French, Spanish or Portuguese wine is my good friend Brian in North Carolina. Brian is not only knowledgeable on this topic; he is a value shopper like me. Below are some of his choices. NOTE: the recommendations are only the Readers Digest version. Brian provided me with a fantastic write up on why he chose the wines below and if any reader has an interest in reading it in its entirety, please let me know and I’ll email it to you.
Valpolicella Ripasso – Dry Red Italian Wine – Ripasso means “repassed”. The unpressed grape skins from Amerone production are added to the already blended and fermented Valpolicella. This adds an incredible amount of body, character, and style to the typically simple wine.
Beaujolais Villages AOC – This is the intermediate level of Beaujolais between the basic Beaujolais and the top Cru Beaujolais. It is quite inexpensive and light to medium bodied with very little tannin and high acidity. Beaujolais is widely consumed throughout the world and considered to be the drink of choice in Burgundy while one waits for the Pinot Noir to age. Beaujolais is supposed to be consumed young and fresh within the first 2 years after the vintage date.
Pouilly Fuisse - Pouilly-Fuisse is a dry white wine made from
Chardonnay. White burgundy tends to show more minerality, acidity and
fresh fruit than chardonnay from the new world.
Cava - Cava is a Spanish sparkling wine made in the traditional method
of the French sparkling wine, Champagne. The primary grape varieties
used in its production are Macabeo, Parellada and Xarello. It tends to be more steely and acidic than sparkling wines produced from Chardonnay.
Happy Thanksgiving to one and all-
JPB
Saturday, October 23, 2010
Thursday, September 30, 2010
Cheers to Charity!
Thanks to Mother Nature, I’m another two weeks away from harvesting my second vintage. While I’ve been patiently waiting for higher sugar levels like an expecting father, I have been fortunate enough to taste some fantastic wines this month. And of all the places, a charity fun raiser was where I found some great wines at affordable prices.
I’ve come to find out, many new wineries and winemakers will use a charity event as a way to market themselves. It makes complete sense; most people who have disposable income will be at a fundraiser and it’s a great write off! Earlier this month I was fortunate enough to have our friends Pat and Kathy invite me to the Wine and Wedges event that benefits the Shriners Hospitals for Children. For me, it was like being a kid in a candy store. Several of the wineries represented had the winemaker or owner of the winery pouring their wine! The sense of pride and passion they expressed for what they had created was truly inspiring. I didn’t have my designated driver for this event (the lovely Mrs. Wineologist) and it was a Sunday so I didn’t go full throttle. However, below are some notes and background on some wines tasted. It was a great event and it left me hoping that someday, with a little luck and determination, I’ll be the person on the other side of the booth pouring my wine.
Nello Olivo Wines- I will start by saying I’m a little biased about this winery. Nello is a neighbor and his grapes are grown about a mile from my vineyard. However, the 24 awards he has received this year alone at various wine competitions speak volumes about the quality of the product. The highlight was a coveted “Best of California” designation for his 2007 Sangiovese entered at the California State Fair. I tried the 2007 Barbera and the 2007 Super Tuscan and they were both wonderful. Most of the wines are priced between $20.00 to $25 dollars and that is more than reasonable. As with most small family operations, the quantities are limited. For ordering, go to www.NelloOlivo.com
Mark West 2007 Chardonnay-Those of you that have read my previous blog posts know I’m not a huge fan of Chardonnay but I’m here to say this might have been the sleeper value wine of the evening. It may have had something to do with the fact that it was over 90 degrees in the building for the event and I was looking for ANYTHING cold. That said, I had a few of my white wine drinking friends confirm this find. The fruit is from the Monterey California area and it was aged in 40% new French Oak. I found this wine to be well balanced with a citrus like aroma. Once it hits your palate, you pick up peach and mango flavors with a hint of apple. Here is the best part, it retails at $15.00 dollars and you can find it all over the internet for less than that. At that price, you could have a glass or two and pour the rest out and not feel bad (although I’m not suggesting that)!
Moniz Family Wines- If late night TV were ever looking to replace pitchman Billy Mays, they would have to look no further than Rod Moniz. His enthusiasm for his wines was simply awesome. Yet his excitement is warranted. The three Moniz wines I tasted were flavorful, well balanced and displayed a true representation of what I like to call Bordeaux Blending done with California panache. Moniz started me off with his “Cuvee Olivia” which was a Cabernet/Merlot blend with a touch of Malbec, Petite Verdot and Cabernet Franc. This wine offered classic dark berry flavor with a touch of earthiness. All of the grapes came from the Sonoma Valley. The next pour, the “Cuvee Alexandra” was a similar blend except the fruit was from Napa Valley. Again, there was plenty of depth and perhaps a tiny bit smoother than the Olivia. To me the wines truly illustrated the difference in “terrior” between the two Valleys. If I had to choose, it would probably be the Napa blend. However, if I had the will power to actually let a wine age, the Sonoma blend could turn into the first choice. The final wine was the 2007 Park Avenue. This was a straight Cabernet that offered lush black cherry flavor with a touch of spice. This wine would stand up to wines offered at twice the price. Speaking of price, Moniz says all of his wines are under $20 dollars! That’s right; UNDER $20 dollars! Hurry and order now and he might just throw in a set of steak knives! www.monizfamilywines.com
Mellowood Vineyard-2008 Syrah-This was Linda Neal’s first release of her new winery located in the hills of El Dorado county. Although this winery is in its infancy, our brief conversation led me to believe Neal was clearly a seasoned veteran of the wine industry. She was also offering a 2008 Zinfandel but I had reached my capacity that would allow for a safe ride home so I only tried the Syrah. Plenty of fruit flavor, depth and hint of licorice. I really liked the wine and for a boutique winery $28 dollars a bottle was reasonable. However, with so many quality wines on the market at discount prices, I just feel like I could find a better value. www.mellowoodvineyard.com
JPB
I’ve come to find out, many new wineries and winemakers will use a charity event as a way to market themselves. It makes complete sense; most people who have disposable income will be at a fundraiser and it’s a great write off! Earlier this month I was fortunate enough to have our friends Pat and Kathy invite me to the Wine and Wedges event that benefits the Shriners Hospitals for Children. For me, it was like being a kid in a candy store. Several of the wineries represented had the winemaker or owner of the winery pouring their wine! The sense of pride and passion they expressed for what they had created was truly inspiring. I didn’t have my designated driver for this event (the lovely Mrs. Wineologist) and it was a Sunday so I didn’t go full throttle. However, below are some notes and background on some wines tasted. It was a great event and it left me hoping that someday, with a little luck and determination, I’ll be the person on the other side of the booth pouring my wine.
Nello Olivo Wines- I will start by saying I’m a little biased about this winery. Nello is a neighbor and his grapes are grown about a mile from my vineyard. However, the 24 awards he has received this year alone at various wine competitions speak volumes about the quality of the product. The highlight was a coveted “Best of California” designation for his 2007 Sangiovese entered at the California State Fair. I tried the 2007 Barbera and the 2007 Super Tuscan and they were both wonderful. Most of the wines are priced between $20.00 to $25 dollars and that is more than reasonable. As with most small family operations, the quantities are limited. For ordering, go to www.NelloOlivo.com
Mark West 2007 Chardonnay-Those of you that have read my previous blog posts know I’m not a huge fan of Chardonnay but I’m here to say this might have been the sleeper value wine of the evening. It may have had something to do with the fact that it was over 90 degrees in the building for the event and I was looking for ANYTHING cold. That said, I had a few of my white wine drinking friends confirm this find. The fruit is from the Monterey California area and it was aged in 40% new French Oak. I found this wine to be well balanced with a citrus like aroma. Once it hits your palate, you pick up peach and mango flavors with a hint of apple. Here is the best part, it retails at $15.00 dollars and you can find it all over the internet for less than that. At that price, you could have a glass or two and pour the rest out and not feel bad (although I’m not suggesting that)!
Moniz Family Wines- If late night TV were ever looking to replace pitchman Billy Mays, they would have to look no further than Rod Moniz. His enthusiasm for his wines was simply awesome. Yet his excitement is warranted. The three Moniz wines I tasted were flavorful, well balanced and displayed a true representation of what I like to call Bordeaux Blending done with California panache. Moniz started me off with his “Cuvee Olivia” which was a Cabernet/Merlot blend with a touch of Malbec, Petite Verdot and Cabernet Franc. This wine offered classic dark berry flavor with a touch of earthiness. All of the grapes came from the Sonoma Valley. The next pour, the “Cuvee Alexandra” was a similar blend except the fruit was from Napa Valley. Again, there was plenty of depth and perhaps a tiny bit smoother than the Olivia. To me the wines truly illustrated the difference in “terrior” between the two Valleys. If I had to choose, it would probably be the Napa blend. However, if I had the will power to actually let a wine age, the Sonoma blend could turn into the first choice. The final wine was the 2007 Park Avenue. This was a straight Cabernet that offered lush black cherry flavor with a touch of spice. This wine would stand up to wines offered at twice the price. Speaking of price, Moniz says all of his wines are under $20 dollars! That’s right; UNDER $20 dollars! Hurry and order now and he might just throw in a set of steak knives! www.monizfamilywines.com
Mellowood Vineyard-2008 Syrah-This was Linda Neal’s first release of her new winery located in the hills of El Dorado county. Although this winery is in its infancy, our brief conversation led me to believe Neal was clearly a seasoned veteran of the wine industry. She was also offering a 2008 Zinfandel but I had reached my capacity that would allow for a safe ride home so I only tried the Syrah. Plenty of fruit flavor, depth and hint of licorice. I really liked the wine and for a boutique winery $28 dollars a bottle was reasonable. However, with so many quality wines on the market at discount prices, I just feel like I could find a better value. www.mellowoodvineyard.com
JPB
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